Wednesday, November 23, 2011

Mortgagees, have you tried the bi-weekly mortgage payment program and if so, has it worked out for you?

I am told it will reduce the life of my mortgage loan by 7 years, and will add to my home equity significantly within 10 years. Is anyone out there actually doing this and have you seen positive results?Mortgagees, have you tried the bi-weekly mortgage payment program and if so, has it worked out for you?
We were going to do it with our previous lender, and I was told by a friend, who is a mortgage broker, that it is not a good idea. I didn't understand his explanation, so when we refinanced, and my cousin handled it, I got him to explain it in detail.





First let me say that we still talked about doing it, but it wouldn't be logical for us. Our lender requires a hefty amount to enroll in the program, and they charge a $50 fee with each payment in order to process the extra payments. None of that goes anywhere but in their pockets. Also, they require that we allow them access to our bank account--we cannot make the payments--they draw them when they please. We were uncomfortable giving that much access to our lender, especially since they told us that there are periodic fluctuations when they re-evaluate our escrow fund, and they might be drawing different amounts at different times. We can give the bank permission for them to draw whatever they want, or we can give the bank permission for them to only access a set amount, so there are no errors or double withdrawals, but there's no way to set it up safely if they want to draw varying amounts from time to time.





My cousin told me why it's an idea which looks great on paper, and may work with the right lender, but why they encourage people to not do it. First of all there are usually fees involved, such as I described above, and those fees rarely do anything but line someone else's pockets. Secondly, that ';extra'; money gets logged at the end of the year, so it doesn't help you out over the course of the year, and if there is something amiss with your escrow, the ';extra'; amount may all go into fixing the problem with escrow, rather than to the bottom line. Third, companies mess up on those bi-weekly payments all the time. Most people stick with the regular once-a-month payment, and there are often errors with bi-weekly payments which can take a lot of time and sometimes money to fix. Finally, that ';extra'; payment includes interest and taxes, so you aren't really paying down the principal by a significant amount.





Here's what they recommend instead. (And this is from both my cousin and the person who first told me about it when I didn't understand it in detail.)





Take one of your payments, and divide it by 12. Then, take that amount, and add it to your monthly payment every month. Before you do so, contact your lender and tell them you will be adding an extra bit to your payment each month, and that you want it applied to the principal. (Applying it to escrow is usually the default, so that part's important if the money is going to do you any good.) Then simply make your regular payments, plus 1/12 of a payment to go to principal.





That system has the advantage in that it really does give you an extra payment each year, but that extra payment is all principal, and not interest or escrow for taxes. That knocks down your principal faster, and builds equity faster, because every extra penny you pay is going where you want it to go. You'd still pay approximately the same amount if you did bi-weekly payments, but not all of the extra will go to principal. If you add to your payments, you can dictate where that money goes and make it go where it counts.





My cousin had one other tip for me. He said instead of making your payment on the same day of the month, make it every four weeks. (That works out especially well if someone is getting a paycheck bi-weekly.) What happens is that in the course of a year, your payment gradually moves to earlier and earlier in the month, and finally starts going in the month before it's due. If you allow that to continue, without adjusting things, you end up making extra payments anyway, and that helps even more. The extra payments you make are not pure principal, but they do help things along, especially since you're already adding the extra principal into each payment already.





Make sense? I hope so, because I cannot explain it any better.





Good luck with whatever you decide.Mortgagees, have you tried the bi-weekly mortgage payment program and if so, has it worked out for you?
Thanks alot for advice.Been trying to decide to go bi-weekly on my mortgage ,advice was great and will explain to my freind about it also that also wanted to go bi-weekly .

Report Abuse



If you select this as a plan you will be obligated to continue with this plan until you refinance or sell your home.





I would suggest that you add an additional payment every three months. This might work as it is volunteer, if you sometimes don't have the extra payment then you are not required to make the extra payments.





You might also add an additional amount each month. Make sure you make an extra check marked add to principal only on the check. You will have to determine what this amount is to be paid each month. Divide your monthly payments by 12 this is one method you can use.





These methods will reduce your mortgage loan. The amount you add each month, quarterly or annually will determine how many years you would reduce your mortgage by.





Then most mortgage contracts will only allow you to pay a certain percentage over amount due each month or year, so check your loan documents that you signed at closing to make sure you stay under that percentage.





I hope this has been of some use to you, good luck.





';FIGHT ON';
Your mortgage company may not actually apply the extra payments until the end of the year, negating some of the alleged savings. If your mtg allows it, just send some extra money towards principal each month - I've been doing that for my entire mtg- 2.5 yrs - it's only an extra $20-40 a month, but when the early Mtg payments only apply $10 a month towards principal, that little extra dds up - I haven't calculated it lately, but I know I've probably knocked at least 2 payments off the mortgage. I'll be able to increase the extra pmt in future years, once I get a few other things paid down more
We thought about it. But with our plan we have to give them an enrollment payment that doesn't go towards our house. So we just decided to do one extra payment a year. Then we decided on dividing up that one extra payment over 12 months. So we pay about a 150 dollars extra a month to do that. We have been doing this for about 2 years and we can see a noticeable change in how much we owe each month. So I think it has been working well.





So look at your bi-weekly plan. It might just be easier to pay a little extra each month.
the math works but it must be applied by the borrower and yes you can pay off in most cases about 9 years early thus saving excessive interest

Is it possible to finance / get a mortgage for a parking space?

I am trying to purchase a garage parking spot. It is in the same complex as my condo, but I'm unable to finance it with the condo as a package for assorted reasons. Does anyone know if it is possible to get a mortgage on a parking space?





If so, any specifics (in particular, lenders who will do this in the Boston area) are greatly appreciated!Is it possible to finance / get a mortgage for a parking space?
You can only get a mortgage if you are actually buying the real estate. Wouldn't a parking space be part of the condo common area?Is it possible to finance / get a mortgage for a parking space?
I've only seen that done when it is purchased with the condo and included in one price. I don't think you can mortgage that separately.

Mortgagees, have you tried the bi-weekly mortgage payment program and if so, has it worked out for you?

I am told it will reduce the life of my mortgage loan by 7 years, and will add to my home equity significantly within 10 years. Is anyone out there actually doing this and have you seen positive results?Mortgagees, have you tried the bi-weekly mortgage payment program and if so, has it worked out for you?
We were going to do it with our previous lender, and I was told by a friend, who is a mortgage broker, that it is not a good idea. I didn't understand his explanation, so when we refinanced, and my cousin handled it, I got him to explain it in detail.





First let me say that we still talked about doing it, but it wouldn't be logical for us. Our lender requires a hefty amount to enroll in the program, and they charge a $50 fee with each payment in order to process the extra payments. None of that goes anywhere but in their pockets. Also, they require that we allow them access to our bank account--we cannot make the payments--they draw them when they please. We were uncomfortable giving that much access to our lender, especially since they told us that there are periodic fluctuations when they re-evaluate our escrow fund, and they might be drawing different amounts at different times. We can give the bank permission for them to draw whatever they want, or we can give the bank permission for them to only access a set amount, so there are no errors or double withdrawals, but there's no way to set it up safely if they want to draw varying amounts from time to time.





My cousin told me why it's an idea which looks great on paper, and may work with the right lender, but why they encourage people to not do it. First of all there are usually fees involved, such as I described above, and those fees rarely do anything but line someone else's pockets. Secondly, that ';extra'; money gets logged at the end of the year, so it doesn't help you out over the course of the year, and if there is something amiss with your escrow, the ';extra'; amount may all go into fixing the problem with escrow, rather than to the bottom line. Third, companies mess up on those bi-weekly payments all the time. Most people stick with the regular once-a-month payment, and there are often errors with bi-weekly payments which can take a lot of time and sometimes money to fix. Finally, that ';extra'; payment includes interest and taxes, so you aren't really paying down the principal by a significant amount.





Here's what they recommend instead. (And this is from both my cousin and the person who first told me about it when I didn't understand it in detail.)





Take one of your payments, and divide it by 12. Then, take that amount, and add it to your monthly payment every month. Before you do so, contact your lender and tell them you will be adding an extra bit to your payment each month, and that you want it applied to the principal. (Applying it to escrow is usually the default, so that part's important if the money is going to do you any good.) Then simply make your regular payments, plus 1/12 of a payment to go to principal.





That system has the advantage in that it really does give you an extra payment each year, but that extra payment is all principal, and not interest or escrow for taxes. That knocks down your principal faster, and builds equity faster, because every extra penny you pay is going where you want it to go. You'd still pay approximately the same amount if you did bi-weekly payments, but not all of the extra will go to principal. If you add to your payments, you can dictate where that money goes and make it go where it counts.





My cousin had one other tip for me. He said instead of making your payment on the same day of the month, make it every four weeks. (That works out especially well if someone is getting a paycheck bi-weekly.) What happens is that in the course of a year, your payment gradually moves to earlier and earlier in the month, and finally starts going in the month before it's due. If you allow that to continue, without adjusting things, you end up making extra payments anyway, and that helps even more. The extra payments you make are not pure principal, but they do help things along, especially since you're already adding the extra principal into each payment already.





Make sense? I hope so, because I cannot explain it any better.





Good luck with whatever you decide.Mortgagees, have you tried the bi-weekly mortgage payment program and if so, has it worked out for you?
Thanks alot for advice.Been trying to decide to go bi-weekly on my mortgage ,advice was great and will explain to my freind about it also that also wanted to go bi-weekly .

Report Abuse



If you select this as a plan you will be obligated to continue with this plan until you refinance or sell your home.





I would suggest that you add an additional payment every three months. This might work as it is volunteer, if you sometimes don't have the extra payment then you are not required to make the extra payments.





You might also add an additional amount each month. Make sure you make an extra check marked add to principal only on the check. You will have to determine what this amount is to be paid each month. Divide your monthly payments by 12 this is one method you can use.





These methods will reduce your mortgage loan. The amount you add each month, quarterly or annually will determine how many years you would reduce your mortgage by.





Then most mortgage contracts will only allow you to pay a certain percentage over amount due each month or year, so check your loan documents that you signed at closing to make sure you stay under that percentage.





I hope this has been of some use to you, good luck.





';FIGHT ON';
Your mortgage company may not actually apply the extra payments until the end of the year, negating some of the alleged savings. If your mtg allows it, just send some extra money towards principal each month - I've been doing that for my entire mtg- 2.5 yrs - it's only an extra $20-40 a month, but when the early Mtg payments only apply $10 a month towards principal, that little extra dds up - I haven't calculated it lately, but I know I've probably knocked at least 2 payments off the mortgage. I'll be able to increase the extra pmt in future years, once I get a few other things paid down more
We thought about it. But with our plan we have to give them an enrollment payment that doesn't go towards our house. So we just decided to do one extra payment a year. Then we decided on dividing up that one extra payment over 12 months. So we pay about a 150 dollars extra a month to do that. We have been doing this for about 2 years and we can see a noticeable change in how much we owe each month. So I think it has been working well.





So look at your bi-weekly plan. It might just be easier to pay a little extra each month.
the math works but it must be applied by the borrower and yes you can pay off in most cases about 9 years early thus saving excessive interest

Is it better to borrow on my mortgage or secured loan?

I want to borrow some to money to consolidate all my credit and thought the only way out is to put it on my mortgage. Problem is i am tied into my mortgage til September and so will have a charge of 拢3000.00 to pull out. Also i will have to have a survey done and pay solicitor fees. Someone has suggested getting a secured loan which is basically the same as a mortgage but you will get the money quicker and wont incurr any charrges. Which is the best option to go for?Is it better to borrow on my mortgage or secured loan?
None of the above. Think very carefully before turning unsecured debt (Credit Cards etc.) into the secured kind, such as a mortgage. No-one can chuck you out of your house for an unpaid unsecured loan. I don't have any figures for you, but you should consider an unsecured loan. The now Government-backed Northern rock would charge you 拢88.96 without insurance per month for every Thousand Pounds borrowed over a period of twelve months. Go onto their website and play around with the term of the loan, which will change the level of your payments. As there is no Redemption Penalty for early settlement, this could bridge the time until your options re-open in September. If you choose not to do anything then, at least you have reduced the interest rate of your borrowings and know when you will clear that debt.





Disclaimer:


The answers above are for guidance only and should not be acted upon without you receiving independent financial advice relevant to your circumstances. To find and IFA please call 0800 085 3250 or go to http://www.unbiased.co.uk.Is it better to borrow on my mortgage or secured loan?
Take the personal loan
most banks will give you a further advance on your mortgage at a better rate than secured loan.
A secured or unsecured loan will be far quicker but the mortgage increase will be cheaper in terms of monthly instalments - however over the period of the mortgage it will turn out much more expensive.





I would strongly suggest an online loan such as virgin / cahoot etc........
a secured loan will be cheaper in the long run as you will pay it off over a shorter period however the repayments will be cheaper monthly to have it on your mortgage, think carefully and speak to the bank would be a good idea
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  • Which mortgage lender in Austin gives the lowest interest rates?

    Please provide your mortgage lender's name and what range of interest rates did you get when you had contacted a few of the lenders while you were hunting for the lowest interest rates?


    Thank you.Which mortgage lender in Austin gives the lowest interest rates?
    call around yourself and find out - sometimes Sunday newspapers list mortgage rates for nearby banks - the rate anyone else got is irrelevant to what YOU will get, based on your credit score, income, price of house, etcWhich mortgage lender in Austin gives the lowest interest rates?
    Well, I'm not in Austin but I have some pretty darn good rates.

    What is the maximum DTI for a mortgage final approval amount?

    How high do lenders go with DTI to determine how much they approve you for? More specifically Bank of America.What is the maximum DTI for a mortgage final approval amount?
    For Conventional Loans banks will not generally approve a loan where your mortgage payment exceeds 28%, or if your overall DTI including the mortgage payment exceeds 36%. In the past there were some banks and loans that would basically ignore these guidelines.





    I can't speak specifically for how Bank of America handles it currently. However, with the current credit situation I would expect that they not only are going to be pretty strict and close to these numbers, but may even lower the maximum DTI.What is the maximum DTI for a mortgage final approval amount?
    I agree with OC1999 but something else to consider would be your credit score and other factors such as your employment type and history.





    An underwriter usually has different debt to income guidelines based on whether you are a prime rate borrower or a ';B'; or ';C'; credit customer.





    If you are in a stable job and have been there a long time, they are more likely to take the risk on you if your DTI ratio is borderline.





    Also, if you've got a past mortgage payment history that's good and demonstrates your ability to pay.

    How to remove someone off of a mortgage loan.?

    How do you release someone from financial liablity from a mortgage, if two people are on the loan?How to remove someone off of a mortgage loan.?
    Quitclaim won't do it. The remaining people on the loan must requalify on their own in order to get the lender to release someone. This basically means ';You have to refinance.';





    Sorry, but the lender based their decision to lend upon that person being responsible for the loan also. They won't let them off the contract that says, ';I agree to pay...'; without being certain (within underwriting guidelines, anyway) that the remaining people can make the payments.How to remove someone off of a mortgage loan.?
    if you want to remove someone from mortgage payment liability- you have to refinance your property without this person on the loan. after this, this person credit will show mortgage account closed.
    I think it's called a quit claim deed.....you can call your mortgage company about this
    Remaining parties on the loan wil have to qualify for the refinance on their own. Quit claim is not the answer.
    Its called a Quit Claim. You need a real estate lawyer to set it up.
    Quit Claim won't work. refinance is an option. Another way to do this without refinancing is to create a trust, place the property into the trust, have the trust make the loan payments and have the other person relinquish their rights to the trust. That way, the lender can't call the loan. Then that person shows proof to all three credit bureas that the trust is making the loan payments and the credit bureas will remove the mortgage/loan info from the credit report.





    Regards
    You need to ask the lender to provide you with a ';Release of Liability'; document which does what is says. Not many lenders will do this so you may need to refinance and take the other person off the loan and title to the property.


    This site has many reports that will most likely answer most of your questions -- www.paynotaxesforlife.com
    As others have said, you have to refinance. Theoretically the lender might release one of the borrowers, but it doesn't really work this way.





    A quit claim transfers ownership of the property, it does not close a borrower's debt.
    refinance your mortgage, there are good rates out there right now, you might save some money as well as solve your problem